MILAN – Fashion has come out of the hamster wheel, breathing deep so that a safe freshness is filtered into the cycle once relentless.
‘It’s so strange to think about fashion, the kind of fashion hamster wheel, and how we’ve never had a break and complained about it,'” Marc Jacobs said during a Milan Fashion Week video chat with Miuccia Prada. and Raf Simons. – virtual broadcast. ” And then you have a break and you complain. “
Instead, he said, he took the time to look at others and get inspired.
Milan Fashion Week, basically true to women’s fashion, for next autumn and winter, closed an almost entirely virtual edition on Monday. Only one designer, Daniel Del Core, who marks the debut of his logo, organized a live parade for a small number of participants. Guests.
While the hustle and bustle of live exhibits with the parade of traveling fashionistas moving from New York to London, Milan and, nevertheless, Paris was missed, designers were also stimulated by the slower speed of the pandemic-era fashion cycle.
Austrian designer Arthur Arbesser has reduced his collection to just 25 looks, which he has presented visits to his Milan studio and video calls, opting for a virtual show.
For the creations, he recycled textiles from past collections that had been hidden in a study box, and the designer revitalized them by printing a new design on the side, in the case of a fairly pleated skirt, or printing over the original with another pattern, in the case of a black architectural detail on a striped cotton.
Arbesser said that the calm imposed by the constraints of the COVID-19 era, as well as the desire to save money, have brought other artistic forces to the forefront. He and his team created a mini dress of cotton, silk and technical nylon patches, and experimented with Shibori’s hand-dyed for a mini-woolskirt.
The collection carries Arbesser’s love of prints, this season it is through the palette of a painter who picked up at a flea market, which combines with geometric patterns and fabrics ranging from the comfortable silk sweater to wool and knit garments.
“I felt it was vital to keep writing this story, my little story, to keep adding chapters,” Arbesser said of his 8-year mark. “I’m glad that even by doing something so small, so small, while generating quality, you can still see it, you can sell your production. “
Masters of the Dolce World
The 140 styles included reinterpretations of domenico Dolce and Stefan Gabbana’s iconic pieces, adding the body and corsets adorned with Madonna jewelry worn through the dancers in Prince’s “Cream” video, from the beginning when Dolce Dolce
The result is an aggregate of the manufacture of the dolce brand.
“The collection is a tribute to this generation that asks us about the 1990s,” Dolce said in a face-to-face presentation of the designers’ showroom looks.
The creators claimed that the concept of sexy the younger generation is much free of preconceived notions than in the past, meaning that men can wear lace t-shirts for no hidden reason.
“It has nothing to do with sexuality, ” said Gabbana. “It is almost a euphemism; it’s about having fun. “
Giorgio Armani has organized separate virtual collections for men and women in his own theatre, either around a reproduction of a statue of a gorilla nicknamed Uri that has been part of his non-public ornament for decades. This green edition of Uri evokes the preservation of the creator’s wildlife, but also echoed the collections’ links to the herbal world. Prints and designs that can be interpreted as leaves, water lilies or undeniable sea creatures, marked the trend of elegantly casual looks.
Global fashion has also paid tribute to artistic colleagues in the theatre, most of whom have been empty in Italy since the beginning of the pandemic.
Pierpaolo Piccioli presented the Valentino Autumn/Winter 2020/21 collection live in empty seats at the Piccolo Theatre in Milan, while singer Cosima obsessed with Sinead O’Conner’s lyrics: “She’s just without you here.
The Valentino collection was a dark affair, adapted to the time, featuring bespoke jackets reconstituted in layers, superimposed with white pointed-necked shirts, tight tops with holes cut in the hand. For the women, there was a movement in the flying miniskirts that escaped. of the hems of the jacket, while feminine ruffles such as shirt ruffles were used with discipline. Accessories included studded bags and boots.
Milanese designer Francesca Liberatore had planned an extravagant exhibition in a Milanese theatre with holographic effects, but not to do so in solidarity with theatre creators who cannot occupy this space.
“I had the ethical problem. How can I just do an exhibition in a theater at a time when artists themselves can’t recite in this place?” said Liberatore on the phone.
Instead, his virtual display featured an actor on an empty level and two-dimensional models, such as paper dolls, in creations that included reimagined trenches with camouflage, representing the company’s site state in the pandemic.
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