Dior, Chanel, Vuitton, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent. These Parisian mega brands have ruled French fashion culture for decades and are known around the world. Recently, a new wave of young designers has built the next generation of big brands in the capital’s fashion landscape. On Monday, the Spring-Summer 2022 collection kicked off in Paris, with a full program of physical exhibitions and presentations in a virtual effort. The pandemic has given way to virtual exhibition formats, which in the case of live exhibitions means an accompanying film to complement markets that may not yet be successful in Paris. Five young brands, each related in one way or another to the prestigious LVMH award, Kenneth Ize, Marine Serre, Thebe Magugu, Koché and Coperni, presented strong collections that further consolidated their mark on fashion. Thebe Magugu, a former LVMH award winner whose creations are recently unveiled at the luxury branch Le Bon Marché, recognizes this new twist. “We build our brands and we do it on our terms,” she notes despite impressive approval from the luxury giant. Here’s a refresher on what you want to know about those trendy names.
KENNETH IZE:
Since participating in the 2019 LVMH Award as a finalist, the Ize logo has grown every season. Her spring 2022 collection introduced Fashion Week and ended her collection with embossed textiles. The excited designer said after the exhibition that his inspiration came here from ” the new dawn of the new era in which we live “, which was expressed in an organization of pieces with golden fringes juxtaposed with the explosion of colors through checkered fabrics and stripes. Born in Vienna to Nigerian parents, the designer showcases Yoruba craft skills with textiles woven in Nigeria, blending classic African and Western influences with a non-gender style. Model Naomi Campbell, who was supporting her first exhibition, helped the designer be recognized throughout the industry. Recently, he asked to design a capsule collection for the Karl Lagerfeld collection, the first since the death of the founder, under the direction of Carine Roitfeld. Currently, their garments are sold in Matches Fashion and Farfetch. diversity from around 350 to 1150 USD.
MARINE GREENHOUSE:
Serre also her career after winning the LVMH 2017 award. With maximum cult prestige since her first collection in 2018, the designer has made her mark with futuristic designs with a recycled technique and a crescent logo, which embellishes the overlapping pieces of frames. Spring 2022 marked her as the maximum sustainable to date, as Serre presented nine looks on mannequins to accompany her film Ostal24, which means house in the ancient Occitan language that originated in the French region when she grew up. read about the dating between intake and nature and encourages us to be more attentive. To do this, Serre reused vintage linen paper towels and napkins, turned cutlery into jewelry and explored the merits of vegetable dyes.
THEBE MAGUGU: The South African designer was the winner of the 2019 LVMH Award and the first African designer to win this honor. According to a corporate statement, the designer combines “practices that are pillars of cultural honor, novelty and uncompromising quality; we identify a marked identity through an evolving timelessness. The designer has adopted a remarkably non-public technique this season by referencing the circle of photographs of relatives, most commonly of his mother and his aunt. These non-public memories created encouraged looks directly through the clothing worn in the photos. During a presentation of his collection titled “Genealogy” on Tuesday, Magugu said he turned to the memories after feeling a bit discouraged by the situation in South Africa. “I sought to create something quite optimistic as opposed to the pettiness in the air that it affected, so I turned to what elevates me: my circle of relatives. ” The presentation showed that the new collection was seen placed separately in an expanded symbol format and the fashionable interpretation of it on the front, while a split-screen film showed the designer in an intimate verbal exchange with his mother and son. of the. aunt in one aspect and the filming of the collection, interspersed with disparate pieces in the other. “It is disparate, however, they paint together; it is very intimate and yet there is a strange moment of fragmented memory. Currently, the collection is sold at Dover Street Market Asia, Koibird in London and Communite in New York, among others. The coins range from around two hundred to 800 USD.
KOCHÉ: Christelle Kocher created Koché in 2014. She was shortlisted for the LVMH Award 2015 and won the ANDAM Award in 2019. Her collections have been described through the Award as “a cross between haute couture, street culture and cool art” and they advertise the elimination of classic gender lines. In her young career, she was selected as the artistic director of Maison Lemarie and received a guest artistic director position at Emilio Pucci for the Fall 2021 collection. Her spring 2022 collection illustrated the atmosphere of the high street and high sewing. Her streetwear trends were heavily peppered with 18th century French sartorial references (such as pearls, feathers, organza overlays), spawning a collection that exudes sophistication. If that sounded a bit romantic, it’s not a mistake. The designer has partnered with dating site Tinder on a collection of hoodies, T-shirts, and dresses portraying the Tinder brand. Part of the sales will benefit Casa 93 from the ModaFusion association, a fashion school in Seine-Saint-Denis. Koche performs at Printemps, Luisa Via Roma, 24Sèvres and Ikram, among others. Retail cost diversity ranges from $ 150 to $ 1,500.
I am an award-winning American journalist in Paris covering the luxury and fashion industries with over 25 years of experience. I have spent over 18 years in the industry.
I am an award-winning American journalist founded in Paris covering the luxury and fashion industries with over 25 years of experience. I spent over 18 years in the WWD “bible” fashion and retail industry, also known as Women’s Wear Daily, where my speed was first sportswear, then first accessories and jewelry for 14 years. My career has been witnessing the shift from classic print media to the evolution of digital. In this role, I gained in-depth knowledge of global design, wholesale and retail markets, and marketing that Along the way, I have met countless creatives and entrepreneurs who create the luxury of creation at the point of sale with the consumer. I’m here at Forbes. com to tell your stories.