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By Samuel Hine
This is an edition of the Show Notes newsletter, in which Samuel Hine reports from the front row of the fashion week circuit. Sign up here to have it delivered to your inbox.
Happy New Year, and welcome back to Show Notes. I know what you’re thinking: it’s fashion week again? That’s right. Starting on January 9, the menswear tour begins its traditional swing from Florence to Milan to Paris. I’m already packing my bags to ship out, so make sure to keep up on my columns and GQ.com features as I make sense of what’s happening on the runways and what everybody’s talking about—Dogs as +1s? Invitations the size of dinner plates? Sneaky PETA protests? Bad fashion food?—at Bar Basso after.
Below you will find a guide to actions, which I have combined for you to gain advantages and mine. You’ll find all the dates and calendar links for those who are tough enough to wake up at 5:00 a. m. m. Live stream the Rick Owens show and all the highlights that deserve attention. Any questions or tips you’d like to share before you get started?Send me an email that I will do my best to answer in a long-term column.
But first, I’ll give you some predictions for next season.
The men’s collections will define the year in fashion, somehow: In January of 2023, a clear sense of elegance and formality swept away all the casual chaos that came before. This sartorial palette cleanser ushered in the course of “quiet luxury” that became the closest thing to a macro trend we had all year. But all that expensive subtlety was lifted by the post-covid luxury shopping bonanza that has since come back to earth. In the face of slowing growth, will a more radical consensus emerge as designers battle for attention? Or will they pivot to safe, commercial themes? Either way, the men’s shows—and the critical reaction to them—will give us a taste of what’s to come as 2024 unfolds.
We’ll find out who’s taking over Givenchy: LVMH’s Don Bernard Arnault wishes a white gentleman would make Givenchy the cultural force it once was, a task that has eluded two very talented designers (Clare Waight Keller and Matthew M. Williams) in recent years. last six years. If Arnault moves one of the few applicants for a task on his high-end chessboard, it would trigger a host of other tactical maneuvers that could reshape the menswear landscape. But there are other outdoor options, including leader Simon Porte Jacquemus. , that would be just as intriguing. Or maybe he’ll accept it as true with the warm hand that brought him to Pharrell and turn to some other celebrity. Who knows! But I’d bet on a quick announcement towards the end of the men’s season, while everyone continues to pay attention to the machinations of the industry. Another question: what will the Givenchy show be like without a designer on January 17?
We hope to make the experience of viewing the exhibits less evil: like concerts and “VIP List” restaurants, the exhibits are designed around content creation and capture. It is a secondary concern. It makes sense: There are many more people watching those exhibits via livestream than in the room, which is why brands design their 10-minute presentations around the content. I will probably never see another fashion. display as grand as Pharrell’s monumental deyet with Louis Vuitton on the Pont Neuf bridge in Paris, a boldly massive occasion that looked stunning online, where it temporarily became the most-watched display of all time. But the garments were about 30 feet away from the audience. Now that we can’t go much further, perhaps more brands will re-explore simpler, more intimate shapes.
The front rows will take advantage of the show: As my colleague Eileen Cartter pointed out in June, last season was the most celebrity-centric menswear month. It’s about taking a few steps in Paris without crossing paths with actors from HBO’s comedy-dramas or K-Pop Supergroups. It was as if the ultimate display of vital fashion was the one that took place as the VIPs made their way to their seats. And this season there will be no shortage of random encounters and memorable moments. Especially if Jacob Elordi outshines the suits above. If that’s possible, to me, her Valentino ensemble represents the two wolves that lie dormant in each and every fashion week participant: one component of you must take everything very seriously, and the other component must embrace the strange energy.
Dates: January 9-12Program: hereHighlights: Pitti Uomo, the historic menswear exhibition held in an ancient Florence castle, is the 0th floor of the Italian haute couture industry and is known for its deliciously unbalanced street taste. For the 105th edition, Pitti continues its culture of inviting guest designers to exhibitions in local palaces, a program that has highlighted emerging talents such as Giorgio Armani (1979) and Dries Van Noten (1995). This season, the headliner is an Anglo-Italian duo. First up, Magliano, the young, attractive Milanese logo known for its “damn classics,” like bulky, square-toed derby shoes and wacky knitwear. Then there’s S. S. Daley, another new logo that, come to think of it, also creates some damn classics, but with a sense of materiality and a quintessentially British charm. The young talents are joined by American menswear creator Todd Snyder, who creates classics that are evidently not fucked up. His changes in wardrobe archetypes are far more sophisticated and have made him a quietly dominant force in American menswear.
Dates: January 12-15 Schedule: here Highlights: MFW will kick off its biggest event: Sabato De Sarno’s first menswear exhibition for Gucci. We got a taste of De Sarno’s menswear designs at the LACMA Gala in November, but it was a formal red carpet. What she does on the runway is far more vital and, like her female display, will likely be widely debated. In the following days, we’ll see Dolce
Dates: January 16-22Schedule: HereHighlights: Pharrell is playing a familiar role at PFW, that of headliner. At Louis Vuitton, the hitmaker closes down night one of a week jammed with unmissable shows, including Wales Bonner, Rick Owens, Dior Homme, Loewe, and the return of Valentino and Balmain Homme to Paris. Newcomers to the official show schedule include the two excellent artisanal labels Auralee and Ziggy Chen, as well as rising sportswear label Winnie, which joins Amiri, KidSuper, Rhude, and Kartik Research (formerly Karu Research) in representing the American fashion scene in Paris this season. Speaking of which, the party of the week is looking like GQ’s traditional bash at L’Avenue… see you there.
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