Berlin Fashion Week has established the agenda: fashion is a political act. Amid political disturbances, Trump’s cost threats in the EU and the next German elections in 2025 (where the distant party deserves to win 20% of the votes), the autumn calendar of 25/26 winter is a winter Made in our minds fashion fashion fashion. It cannot be neutral. All clothes, from haute couture to the main street, take position in a network, in a context.
Fashion Week itself is a resistance lesson. There are possibilities. The brands that constitute the calendar are resolved in their independence, the main economic challenges, configuring their own ecosystem of choice that prioritizes crafts, inclusion and diversity. It is a small industry: around five, 000 small and medium -sized medium -sized companies, which employ approximately 26,000 employees collectively, give a contration to the billing of the fashion industry of five billion euros. “They have the freedom to exist here and make their own rhythm. These are even less commercial design oriented brands, ”explains Stavros Karelis, founder of the Machine-A store that is located in the Committee of Berlin Fashion Week (BFW), the event. “You can also see it in the alignment. There are many concepts and opinions. From Marke to Lou de Bètoly, it is very combined and intercultural. “
This discussion is the result of a review under the direction of Christiane Arp, president of the Board of Administrators of Germany of the Fashion Council, which is largely credited with the transformation of BFW. “Fashion has the strength to unite other people,” said the Opening event. “Build bridges and lead to social change. We are what we use and use who we are. Fashion has the strength to unite other people. It is a global foreign collection and a living and constant evolution. »
From January 31 to February 3, it is a four -day program. There are 6 brands with anything to say.
GmbH behind the scene of Berlin fashion week
The return of the GMBH Fashion Week of Paris to the German window is a strong sign that BFW takes impulse in the world. This season, the label raises the consultation: Can creativity survive? Behind the scene after the show, co -founder Benjamin Alexander Huseby beg or the existential concern that we live and treat through poems, books and music.
As the screen points out, we live in serious times. But the collection is not in any way and stands out for our “search for convenience with good appearance and art. ” There is emotion and nostalgia: a leather blouse and zip boots are immediately desirable, while the neckline of revenge on the shoulder is back (supposedly Lady Diana’s dress designed through Christina Stambolian) in sumptuous coats. The soap box is sensitive and without shame, alternately woven through the collection in sophisticated touches, a sharp suit with large shoulders in the candles with sweet organs) or noisy: see the sweaters published with “do not exchange with the enemy, “now strangely prophetic.
“We are for a fight. For this long combat that awaits us. But while fighting, you wait, ”explains the co -founder Serhat Isik. “Continue to resist. “
A style carries the neckline of revenge in the exhibition of GMBH the Berlin Fashion Week
The disconnection of other people today under the worsening of political climates is what worries Jale Richert and Michele Beil, the couple behind one of the maximum conceptual brands in Berlin. “We do not need to make a collection, for example, a political crisis, however, we are looking for concepts that other people can identify. Our inspirations are super liters, of an even more deeply theme,” Richert explains the next day. The show. “It is giving hope and joining other people. “
Murmot – The Automn Winter ‘25/26 collection – the fact of many ways. It shows in the varied diversity of the track that sank other genuine people with varied frames; 10 faces on the track were completely new in fashion parades. The richest beil chooses transgressive fabrics such as latex to analyze fantastic issues such as maternity and invisible work, raising curtains in sewing titles with technical interventions such as darts. Finally, the Fichtebunker living room is traditionally busy. Another impressive position, the desert bunker in the medium of Kreuzberg, was once a position to remain for moms and their young World War II. In the center of the total there is a symbol of shelters and care: the statue of a holy angel.
As the maximum emotional label on the calendar, according to German fashion tips, it is no less intense this season. But here we see social realism that sentimentality. On the track, a long pregnant mother, a woman who squeezes plastic milk containers.
Richert Berl’s Berlin Fashion Fashion Week, winter 25-26, the show took position in a desert bunker in Kreuzberg
Haderlump can be young (it was only founded in 2021), but it is already one of the maximum names well educated in the Berlin fashion calendar. From the concept to production, it is a label that means businesses despite its small scale: only 13, adding apprentices. Founded through Johann Ehrhardt and Julius Weissenborn, everything occurs internally in Neukölln through a collective. “We are no longer in the wholesale market, rentals, gases, etc. , explains Ehrhardt in the official corridor of the BFW exhibition in Chateau Royal.
After the disused plane hanger last season, the immersive staging for winter autumn 25/26 takes some other transport, exercises. A platform with an obsolete watch and a signage at the Schöneweide station prepares the scene. Through 28 looks, each story, the worker of the exercise, the server, etc. , solivant (Latin for solo travelers) considerations impulse, time and action. “I had this story in my brain of a guy who goes to a platform that loses his shoe while embarking on the exercise. Then he presented the moment too, and discovered that Gandhi when he visited India, ”explains Ehrhardt. The spirit of Berlin is upset by the spicy power of the models that rush on the long track.
The design takes almost a rear seat, but it is intentional, with main points darkened in a blur. In the exhibition hall, it is impeccable to see each other closely. This is the quintessence of Berlin’s style.
Haderlump produces all sustainability internally through a Neukölln collective
Aher application position, Spiegels in Clärchens Ballhaus is the position in which the French designer Lou de Bètoly summons his community. Consumers are sitting under the stucco roof dating from the beginning of the 19th century, surrounded through brave relief, impressive giant mirrors and a solitary tail piano, which talk to the faded glamor of an era in time. This decline also constitutes the DNA of the Lou de Bètoly logo. This means that he is caught in the hereafter and that the drawings have caught celebrities such as Dua Lipa and Beyoncé.
In an impressive way, this season, the 40 looks have been made exclusively from old fabrics and unreasonable fabrics, which use meticulous artisanal techniques, which illustrate De Besoly’s perspective as a designer. Two -piece skin costumes are discussed in pink sheets; An old silk blanket becomes a night dressed for the hand; We see maximum structured reformulated leather belts. De Bètoly sings when he creates dressing, adding his slightly transparent nylon fabric, some tissues with mohair or decorated with opulent floral patterns or sumptuous ornaments.
All Lou Lou de Bètoly were made of old fabrics and dead and used fabrics.
Creator Mario Keine encouraged literature this season to produce a craft birthday party, slow fashion and tail in hand. His muse, the worldan Stephen Tennant, lived in the shadow of the war: a brother of the war poet Edward Tennant and a spouse from Siegfried Sassoon.
Autumn Winter ‘25/26 opens with fluid fluid silhouettes, mild draped and sensitive elaborations loaded with old keys created completely from mortal. Custom looks in sumptuous fabrics such as wool silk mixtures; Romastic, large, draped arches with raw weapons. Keine’s eye for details is, namely, in the repetitive lines of silk -covered buttons or mesh garments decorated with old jewels and artifacts sewn in the fabric, items dressed near the heart.
“I do all models and sampling. This is an individual program, “he explains after the show. Released in 2022, Marke temporarily went from sculptural jewels to incorporate clothes. The collections are unisex, but 60% of consumers are and production is carried out in Germany. ” This is the right thing to maintain production here: I can do it later and very temporarily, as well as respond to personal requests with changes. Cologne.
Creator Mario Keine celebrating encouraged techniques through literature
Palmwine ice cream, directed through the Ghanaés-Britanic designer Kusi Kubi, is a focus on BFW’s last day. New programming is the first African logo to be rewarded as one of the winners of the Concept BFW festival in the new Berlin category. Kubi’s label is rooted in Ghana with moral production and the use of pre -existing fabrics and dead ends in his heart.
The screen organized in the electro nightclub in Berlin Berghain, which defines a giant component of the aesthetics of the city: black, Gothic and minimalist. But Palmwine ice cream is the opposite. The collection incorporates leather caps, raffia, wood and recycling (which is used to drink water and palm wine) in brown rich vegetables, terrible green, deep red and blackarray even a touch of orange looks elegant in a palette to the that Kubi has selected to evoke heat.
The collection is committed to a close friend, who has shaped the concept: the dynamic intersections of the past, the supply and the long journey through the fabric, the shape and the feelings. It is strangely effective, cheerful but selected, and gives another point of view. Shocking pink leather pants on the Berghain dance floor? Why not.
Directed in Berlin Electro NightClub Berghain, the Iceceam Palmwine shows a refreshing insurrection in color and curtain innovation
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